When you’re on duty or spending long hours outdoors, the material your uniform or gear is made from isn’t just a detail; it affects how well you can move, how protected you are from the elements, and how long it lasts. Fabric choice influences comfort, durability, and weight. In public safety roles or jobs that require fieldwork, a fabric that resists abrasion, allows freedom of movement, and doesn’t weigh you down is essential.

Understanding Fabric Weaves

A fabric weave is created by interlacing two sets of threads: warp threads, which run lengthwise, and weft threads, which run across the fabric. The way these threads overlap gives different weave patterns.

The Role of Weave in Fabric Performance

The weave pattern plays a major role in how a fabric performs and wears over time, influencing factors such as:

  • Durability: Weaves that interlace more threads or add reinforcement yarns (as in ripstop) improve tear resistance. Twill weaves produce diagonal ribs that make the fabric strong and suitable for everyday wear.
  • Comfort and breathability: Looser or lighter weaves let air flow through and dry quickly, while tighter weaves offer structure and warmth.
  • Appearance: A plain weave looks uniform and flat, ripstop has a subtle grid, and twill displays diagonal lines called wales.

Understanding how weave patterns affect performance helps ensure the right fabric is selected for the job.

Ripstop vs Twill Fabric: Understanding the Difference

Choosing the right fabric is essential for both comfort and performance. Ripstop and twill are two of the most widely used durable weaves in tactical and outdoor apparel. While both are strong, their construction and characteristics make them better suited for different applications. Here’s an easy guide to understand what sets them apart.

What is Ripstop Fabric?

Ripstop fabric is a woven textile designed to stop small tears from becoming large rips. Manufacturers achieve this by weaving thicker reinforcement threads into a lighter base fabric at regular intervals, creating a grid pattern. The spacing of these reinforcement threads varies by manufacturer and application. The combination of lightweight yarns and periodic reinforcement provides an excellent strength-to-weight ratio.

Originally developed during World War II for parachutes, Ripstop became an important fabric for the military for its excellent strength-to-weight ratio. Today, it’s used in everything from tactical gear to outdoor clothing and equipment.

Types of Ripstop Fabrics
  • Nylon ripstop: Lightweight, strong, and quick-drying; commonly used in military and outdoor gear due to its water resistance.
  • Cotton ripstop: Uses natural fibers for breathability and comfort but may shrink or fade faster than synthetics.
  • NYCO (nylon‑cotton blend): Combines the durability and quick‑drying qualities of nylon with the softness of cotton, widely used in tactical uniforms.
  • Polyester ripstop: Durable and colorfast; polyester fibers offer good UV and moisture resistance, making it suitable for gear exposed to sun and rain.
Key Characteristics and Benefits

Ripstop fabrics are valued for several traits:

  • High tear resistance: The grid of thicker threads prevents small tears from growing.
  • Lightweight: Ripstop maintains strength without adding extra weight.
  • Breathable and quick drying: Synthetic ripstops allow moisture to evaporate quickly.
  • Durability and color retention: Polyester and nylon ripstops hold their color and resist UV damage better than many natural fibers.

These qualities make ripstop ideal for high mobility applications such as military uniforms, tents, backpacks, and tactical pants.

What is Twill Fabric?

Twill is a weave characterized by diagonal ribs or wales. In a basic twill, the weft thread passes over one warp thread and under two or three warp threads, with the pattern offset on each row. This structure produces the distinctive diagonal lines and contributes to the fabric’s strength and flexibility.

Key Characteristics and Benefits
  • Strength and durability: Twill weaves are stronger than plain weaves. The diagonal structure spreads stress across more fibers.
  • Soft hand and good drape: Twill fabrics feel soft and hang well, resisting wrinkles and creases.
  • Resists soiling: The irregular surface of the weave and tighter construction help hide dirt and stains.
  • Versatility: Twill can be woven from cotton, polyester, or blends.
  • Fewer interlacings: Twill has fewer thread interlacings than plain weaves, resulting in a softer, more malleable fabric.

Because of these qualities, twill is popular for workwear, chinos, tactical pants, and more.

Comparing Ripstop and Twill in Everyday Use

Aspect Ripstop Twill
Weave & appearance Grid pattern created by reinforcement threads spaced 5 to 8 mm apart. Diagonal ribs (wales) formed by offsetting weft threads.
Tear resistance Reinforced grid resists tearing and prevents propagation. Strong, but without reinforcement; may tear if snagged.
Weight & feel Generally lightweight with a slightly crisp feel due to reinforcement. Typically heavier and softer, draping comfortably.
Breathability & climate Quick‑drying and breathable, suited to warm or humid environments. Denser weave offers more warmth and wind resistance, suitable for cooler or indoor settings.
Maintenance Easy to clean and quick to dry; synthetics hold color well. May require gentler washing; cotton‑rich twills can shrink or wrinkle, but often conceal stains

Propper's Ripstop and Twill Products

Since 1967, Propper has been a leading supplier of military and tactical apparel, delivering over 160 million garments to the U.S. Department of Defense.

With deep expertise in Ripstop and Twill fabric technologies, Propper designs products that balance durability, comfort, and professional appearance for demanding users.

Ripstop Product Line

Propper’s Ripstop collection is built for performance and durability in demanding environments such as military, law enforcement, and first responder work. Each style uses specialized fabric blends designed to resist tearing, enhance comfort, and maintain a professional appearance.

1. BDU Uniform Pants – Ripstop
  • These trousers balance durability with tactical functionality.
  • Constructed from a 60% cotton / 40% polyester ripstop blend, they provide reliable tear resistance with everyday comfort.
  • Features include multiple storage pockets, drawstring leg closures, a zipper fly with button closure, felled inseams, outseams, and seat seams for enhanced durability, along with reinforced knees for extended wear.
2. BDU 2.0 Ripstop Cargo Pant

The BDU 2.0 represents a modern update to the classic BDU design.

  • The BDU 2.0 is a modern update to the classic BDU design.
  • Constructed from 57% nylon / 43% cotton ripstop (NYCO) fabric, it delivers lightweight durability with enhanced breathability and quick-drying performance.
  • Multiple cargo pockets provide ample storage, while adjustable waist tabs allow a customized fit.

The NYCO blend offers the strength of nylon with the comfort of cotton, ideal for long duty wear.

3. Lightweight Ripstop Station Pant

Tailored for first responders and station duty, these pants use 6.4 oz 65% polyester / 35% cotton lightweight ripstop.

  • Designed for first responders and station duty, these pants are made from 6.4 oz 65% polyester / 35% cotton lightweight ripstop fabric.
  • A Teflon™ fabric protector treatment repels stains and liquids, while a slider waistband with an internal shirt gripper improves comfort and appearance.
  • NTOA members tested and approved.

Twill Product Line

Propper’s Twill offerings focus on comfort, professionalism, and everyday reliability. These garments maintain a crisp look while providing long-lasting wear for uniformed professionals.

1. BDU Trouser Button Fly – 60/40 Twill

A timeless BDU design made from 60% cotton / 40% polyester twill, sewn to MIL-T-44047E specification. Key features:

  • Button fly closure
  • Reinforced seat and knee for maximum longevity
  • Felled seams for enhanced durability
  • Six-pocket design with four button-flap closures
2. BDU Uniform Pant - Twill

Made with 65% polyester / 35% cotton twill, these trousers maintain a classic fit and professional look.

  • Adjustable waist tabs ensure customizable fit.
  • Fused pocket flaps deliver a clean and professional look.
  • Have 6 pockets for optimal storage of gears.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Needs

  • When to choose ripstop: If your work involves outdoor missions, field patrols, or any environment where clothing is prone to snags and abrasions, ripstop’s reinforced grid prevents small tears from spreading. Its lightweight and quick‑drying properties make it suitable for hot or humid conditions. It’s also a good choice when gear weight and packability matter.
  • When to choose twill: In cooler climates or indoor roles where warmth and comfort are priorities, twill’s thicker weave and softer hand are advantageous. The diagonal pattern hides stains and wrinkles, making it ideal for uniformed professionals working in offices, warehouses or security positions. Twill fabrics drape well and offer a more classic appearance.

Conclusion

Ripstop and twill are both durable fabric weaves, but each serves a distinct purpose. Ripstop’s reinforced grid construction delivers lightweight strength and tear resistance, making it ideal for field-ready gear and high-abrasion environments. Twill’s diagonal weave creates a soft, durable fabric that drapes well and resists wrinkles, better suited for cooler climates or professional duty settings.

Understanding how each fabric performs allows you to select the right Propper garment for your role, environment, and operational demands.